We are currently anchored off a small island with another unpronounceable name, Faresmaathodaa, in South Huvadhoo atoll. Over the last couple of weeks we have slowly made our way south from Male anchoring off small islands like this one. Some anchorages are straightforward and some are decidedly tricky with definite heart stopping moments as we negotiate coral reefs, man made cuts with dubious depths through the reef and even when you think you have entered the safety of the lagoon there are still bommies lying in wait for you. We have been averaging 20 miles a day, trying to sail for the most part and planning to arrive at the pre-planned anchorage with plenty of light to see the lurking bommies and find a suitable depth to 'drop the hook'. The islands are all pretty similar just some more populated than others. What really distinguishes them is the quality of the water - yes, we have been doing quite a bit of snorkelling. Sometimes we go ashore and check out the little towns which also all look very similar. People are for the most part friendly and smile and say hello - others are quieter and more conservative. The kids are always great and very curious.
We, at least I am, are getting very tired of cooking on board and always look forward to the possibility of being able to 'eat out'. Sadly, this has been very disappointing since we left Male. Most of the larger islands have at least a 'coffee shop' but water and coffee is about all there is on offer. They seem to be a place for the men to hang out with their mates - very rarely do you see women in these establishments. In fact, except for picking up the kids from school it is unusual to see women at all. I can only guess that they get together in each other's homes. We have gone ashore the last two nights to the same 'cafe' where the choices are chicken fried rice or tuna fried rice. We are now out of choices and will probably eat on board tonight. Still it was a nice change and an opportunity to get together with the crew of the other 4 boats in the anchorage
So, here we are waiting for the wind to take us onto Gan in the most southern atoll of Adhoo. The south west monsoon is slowly kicking in and we are getting less of the more desirable northerly winds. It is very hot - we are only 11 miles north of the equator but I'm hoping it will be cooler in the Southern Hemisphere - hot air rises doesn't it? Looks like there will be a more favourable wind tomorrow and we plan to leave in the late afternoon to 'overnight' the 60 miles to Gan. We will hang around there for a week or so making the last minute preparations ie food, fuel, clearing out etc before we 'step off' for Chagos - an archipelago the Brits claimed way back and then kicked the indigenous people off to make way for a huge, top secret US military facility on Diego Garcia, on the biggest island. Sounds familiar doesn't it? Entry is via a special permit only which we negotiated with the British government. Good for a maximum of 4 weeks. Unless you are US military or part of the British Indian Ocean Territories beaurocracy you will never get to visit this place unless you are on your own boat which makes us feel pretty special.
